The Brand New Direction On Food & Drink Just Released
The day I discovered to make chicken relleno, my lola laid out two chopping boards and a set of battered but rigorously sharpened knives. Carrying a bathe cap over her head, she deboned the rooster along with her tiny arms so quick, I needed to double-confirm what parts were left. Her embutido — the pork and sausage stuffing to be sewn up inside the chicken — required the technical precision of a French farce (finely puréed meat). Later, at a culinary convention, I watched an indication by the French chef Jacques Pépin and realized that my lola was making galantine. …